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The Past and Present of
Lake County, Illinois,
Containing, &c., &c.

History of Lake County

Part One of Three

LAKE COUNTY lies at the extreme northeast corner of the State of Illinois, and is bounded on the north by Wisconsin, on the east by Lake Michigan, on the south by Cook, and on the west by McHenry County. Its length, from the southern boundary to the State line on the north, is 23 1/2 miles. Its average breadth is about 19 1/2 miles; containing an area of about 460 square miles, or 294,400 acres. It derives its name from being situated upon Lake Michigan, as well as from the great number of small lakes contained within it, amounting to about forty in all. This county was originally a part of McHenry, which latter county was erected from Cook and La Salle, by the Legislature at its session of 1835-6. It was detached from McHenry and created as the county of Lake, by an Act of the General Assembly, approved March 1, 1839.

Whilst the first settlement of the county is comparatively of recent date, the period at which it was first visited by the white race is more remote, and far beyond the memory of any one living at this time.

There has been a kind of tradition existing, that the place where Waukegan (formerly called Little Fort) now stands was once the site of a small fort, and that this point was, at an early day, occupied by the French as a trading post. But the accounts which are given concerning it have been vague as to time, and not entirely satisfactory. In Smith's Documentary History of Wisconsin is a narrative of Wm. S. Hamilton, as given to Cyrus Woodman, of that State, some twenty years ago, in which Mr. Hamilton says that in 1825 he took a drove of cattle from Springfield, Illinois, by way of Chicago, to Green Bay, Wisconsin, to supply the United States army stationed there; that "from Chicago to Grosse Point, he followed up the lake, though not immediately along the shore. Not far from Grosse Point, on a level and not elevated piece of ground, were the remains of an old fort called, at that time, Little Fort, the site, perhaps, of the town now called by the same name." Mr. Hamilton probably saw the remains of this old fort, but his memory doubtless failed him in correctly describing its location. Those who visited this point as late as the Fall of 1835 say that there was at that time to be seen here, on the high point just north of the present site of State street bridge, pickets, or palisades, in a decayed condition, the remains of an old fort.

A history of the United States, published in London in 1795, containing a map of the United States, according to the treaty of 1783, the information for which, so far as relates to the Northwest, doubtless dating back at least one hundred years from this time, shows at that time the existence of only two points on the western shore of Lake Michigan; these are Chicago and Little Fort, which latter place is shown at the mouth of a stream designated as "Old Fort River." From this, it seems that Little Fort, now called Waukegan, was a point known to the whites at least one hundred years ago. From the stream designated as "Old Fort River," we are led to infer that there was once, at this point, a fort of still older date than the one which was called Little Fort. It is supposed that this place was visited in 1679 by La Salle and Hennepin.

The land of which Lake County is comprised is a portion of the country acquired by the United States Government by treaty with the Pottawattomie and other tribes of Indians, at Prairie Du Chien, in August, 1829, by which the Indian title became extinguished February 21, 1835. By stipulation, however, the Indians remained in the country until August, 1836, when they were removed to lands assigned them, west of the Missouri River, in what is now the State of Kansas.

Daniel Wright was the first white settler, and built the first house, or permanent habitation, in what is now Lake County, in August, 1834. It was on the prairie, a short distance west of the Aux Plaines River, and about a mile south of Indian Creek. In the Fall of that year, a death occurred in his family, which is noted as the first death occurring in the county.

No permanent settlement of the county was commenced to any extent until 1836; occupancy of the lands being forbidden up to that time, by the United States Government, as before remarked, on account of the Indian title not being extinguished. Several claims of land were made, however, during the Summer and Fall of 1834, in the vicinity of the Aux Plaines River. Among those who made claims in 1834, who became settlers, were Daniel Wright, Hiram Kennicott, Jonathan Rice, Asahel Talcott, Ransom and Richard Steele, William Cooley, Charles H. Bartlett, Thomas McClure, Willard Jones, Phineas Sherman and Amos Bennett-the latter of whom was a colored man, and the first of the African race who came to what is now Lake County; he is said to have once remarked, with much self- satisfaction, speaking apparently with reference to the Indians, that he was the first white man that ever planted corn in Lake County. He was a very intelligent man and much respected.

The settlement of the year 1835, which was limited to a few families, was mostly along the west side of the Aux Plaines River, extending as far north as the site of the Aux Plaines Bridge, in the present town of Warren. In the Spring of this year, Peleg Sunderlin built a house on the prairie, on the Green Bay road, about a mile north of what is now called Spaulding's Corners, where he opened a public house, or tavern, for the accommodation of travelers--being the first house of that kind opened in the county.

In September of this year, Hiram Kennicott opened a store of goods at this place, on the Aux Plaines River, near the mouth of Indian Creek, where he had previously settled; and this was the first store established in the county. About this time Mr. Kennicott completed a saw-mill on the river, at the same point, which he had commenced the Fall before; and this was the first saw-mill erected in the county.

At this time, the territory comprised in what afterward became the county of Lake was a part of Cook County, and was within the Chicago Precinct, or election district. At the September term, 1835, of the County Commissioners' Court of Cook County, a new precinct was formed, comprising most of the territory north of the town of Chicago, styled Lake Precinct. The place of holding elections was established at the house of Dexter Hapgood, about six miles below the present site of the village of Wheeling. At a special election, in this precinct, held October 17th, Hiram Kennicott was elected a Justice of the Peace--thirty-two votes, in all, being cast. He was the first Justice of the Peace who served in what is now called Lake County. Mr. Kennicott was a lawyer by profession, having studied law at Aurora, New York, with Millard Fillmore. He was, therefore, the first lawyer who came to Lake County.

About the month of January, 1836, a daughter of Daniel Wright was married to William Wigham; the ceremony was performed by Hiram Kennicott, as Justice of the Peace, which was the first marriage occurring in the county.

At the September term of the County Commissioners' Court of Cook County, the same year, Richard Steele, Thomas McClure and Mark Noble were appointed Viewers to lay out a road from Chicago to the State line across the Des Plaines River. The road was laid out in December following, and established at the March term, 1836, being the first public road established by the State authority within the limits of the present county of Lake. The record designates the road as commencing at Chicago, at Kinzie street, thence to Wentworth's Ridge; thence to Planck's Point; thence to Hickory Grove; thence across the Des Plaines River to Wissencraft's Point; thence to Spring Creek timber (supposed to be Indian Creek); thence to Winecup's Point; thence across the Des Plaines River to the Green Bay road; the United States Government having previously established a road for military purposes from Chicago to Green Bay, by the lake shore route, and which was known as the "Green Bay Road."

Planck's Point, alluded to, is what is now known as "Dutchman's Point," in the township of Niles, Cook County. A man by the name of Planck, of German nationality, was the first settler at this point, and is probably the first of that nationality who settled north of Chicago. He kept a public house, and was known by travelers as "the Dutchman," from which the place became generally known as "Dutchman's Point."

Winecup's Point is understood to refer to the point of timber on the road at the crossing of the creek, about a mile north of Libertyville, and should have been Wynkoop's Point, being at the place where Tobias Wynkoop settled in 1835--a person of rare eccentricity, whose peculiarities are remembered by the early settlers, and at whose expense many a ludicrous anecdote is related. He was an extravagant man; but his was an extravagance of ideas. In theory, he was expansive, and never did anything on a small scale.

Wentworth's Ridge was afterward known as the Sand Ridge, then seven miles from Chicago. Elijah Wentworth was then the only inhabitant on this ridge. He kept a public house eight miles from Chicago, where now is the village of Jefferson. He was better known as "Old Geese." If any one incurred his disapprobation, he retorted, "You are a perfect geese; " from which, in time, he took this name among travelers far and near.

This road became known as the Milwaukee road. That present important thoroughfare in Chicago called Milwaukee avenue was established on the line of this road, and takes its name therefrom.

During the year 1835, the first beginning was made at Waukegan, by a company that had been formed at Chicago for the purpose of building up a town at that point. The first habitation was built in the side of the bluff, a short distance north of the ravine. In August of this year, Nelson Landon built a house and settled on the prairie near the State line, being the first house built in what is now the township of Benton. Jeremiah Stowell came at the same time, and settled near by. During this year, also, Willard Jones settled at Jones' Point; Leonard and George Gage, and George A. Drury, at Gage's Lake; William Fenwick, at Diamond Lake; Daniel Marsh, a few miles to the north of that; Lewis G. Schenck, Elisha Clarke, Solomon Norton and Hiram Clarke, at Mechanics' Grove. The first settlers about this grove were mechanics by trade, hence they called it by this name. Mathias Mason and John Gridley and sons settled on Indian Creek; John A. Mills, Seth Washburne, R. E. and J. M. Washburne, James Chambers, Clark Knights, Alonzo Cook, Henry Wells, William Easton, John A. Mills, Ransom Steele, Andrew S. Wells, John Herrick, Moses Putney, Charles H. Bartlett, Elconah Tingley, James and William Lloyd, Robert, Christopher and William Irwin, William Rumsey, Samuel Brookes, Ezekiel Boyland and others settled at various points along the Aux Plaines River. Thomas Tiernan settled near the place since known as the Toll Gate, on the old plank road near Waukegan; Otis Hinckley settled on the Green Bay road, a short distance from where since stands the station house of the railroad at Lake Forest; John Flood settled at what is since known as Spaulding's Corners; Joseph Dehart, at the place since known as the New York House. The Minsky brothers settled come distance north of that, in what is now the town of Benton. Moses Putney, before mentioned, who settled on the road between Libertyville and Half-Day, was the first representative of Crispin, or, in other words, the first shoemaker who practiced the cobbler's art in Lake County.

In 1836, more progress was made, and the settlement of the county may be said to have fairly commenced during this year. A saw-mill was built by Seth Washburne at Half-Day, and another by Jacob Miller on Mill Creek, about a mile or two above its intersection with the Aux Plaines. In those days, great value was attached to a mill site. It was equal to a California gold mine of a later day. This was the principal purpose for which the country was first explored. But, strange as it may appear, out of the twelve water-mills that have been erected in the county from first to last, nearly all have disappeared. The evaporation and other causes following the improvement of the country so reduced the supply of water that the mills could not be operated thereby, hence one by one they have become abandoned.

The place now known as Libertyville first acquired a name in the world in 1835, as "Vardin's Grove." During this year, a man by the name of Vardin--an Englishman, and a gentleman of culture- built a small habitation at the south side of the grove--where afterward lived Henry B. Steele--from whom the grove, for a time, took its name.

In the Fall of 1835, a man by the name of Morse settled here, upon the east side of the grove, and set up a shop for blacksmithing. He was the first blacksmith who worked at the business in Lake County, having worked at his trade for a few months previously at Kennicott's mill.

About the month of June, 1836, a stage line was established between Chicago and Milwaukee by way of the newly laid out road before referred to, for carrying passengers and the United States mail. The enterprise was commenced by a Mr. Johnson, then proprietor of a hotel in Chicago, called the New York House. The vehicle used was a common lumber wagon, but to give it character for the purposes used, it was drawn by four horses. William Lovejoy was the first driver upon the route. The mail, previous to that time, had been carried between Chicago and Green Bay, for the accommodation of the military posts, once a month, by a man on foot, by the way of the Indian trail near the lake shore.

On the 4th of July, 1836, the settlers at and about Vardin's Grove assembled for the celebration of the day. This was the first formal celebration of the kind in the county. The number present was about fifteen persons. A liberty pole was erected, and the name of Independence Grove given to the place--an appellation suggested by the occasion.

At this time, the lands in this part of the country were unsurveyed and the title remained in the United States Government. For all practical purposes, the settlers were beyond the reach of statute laws or civil authority.

The law rested in every man's conscience. In short, the people were "a law unto themselves." If a person desired to select a tract of land, he made a "claim," as the term for his right was expressed. The most substantial evidence of his claim was the erection of a habitation, no matter how small or the fencing or "breaking up" of land. If he could not conveniently do either of these, for want of time or assistance, he would mark or cut down trees in various places on the land he wished to hold. This temporary evidence of intention was usually respected for a season, and until such time as the party would reasonably be expected to return and continue the evidence of his claim. A large proportion of the county was originally claimed by this slight character of evidence, under which many claims were sold to more bona fide settlers for a large consideration--especially so where it was understood to possess the advantages of a mill site.

The first resort to a court of justice to settle a dispute concerning the occupancy of a "claim" was on the part of a Mr. Blaisdell against Ezekiel Boyland. The land in question was that since owned and occupied by Proctor Putnam, in the town of Warren. This was about the month of January, 1836. The process was issued by a Justice of the Peace in Chicago. The defendant appeared; but the proceeding was not sustained. This is believed to be the first judicial process of any kind ever served in Lake County.

The population of the county was at length increasing so rapidly that the settlers saw the necessity of some mutual regulations among themselves for defining and enforcing their rights concerning their possessions. Accordingly, a general meeting of the settlers was convened at Independence Grove, on the 2d of December, 1836, for conference and deliberation. Samuel Brooks was chosen Chairman, and George Kimball, Secretary. A committee of three, consisting of Nelson Landon, Samuel Brooks and Willard Jones, were appointed to report resolutions and regulations. This committee reported a series of resolutions and regulations, which were adopted, constituting an association for the protection of claimants of land, prescribing their rights and duties, and the remedy in case of trespass or invasion. It was called "The Abingdon Association of Settlers," and became known in common speech as "The Compact." Meetings of the Association were held annually for the transaction of business and election of officers. The history of this association illustrates the power and influence of local self-government. The settlers looked upon any interference on the part of the civil authorities as an encroachment not to be tolerated, unless sanctioned at their popular assemblies, as indicated from the following regulations adopted at a meeting held February 12, 1837:

"That every member of this Association does hereby bind himself to contribute his due proportionate share of the expenses incurred in defending or prosecuting all suits at law or equity in which any member may be engaged in consequence of obeying or carrying into effect the decisions or orders of the commissioners, according to the 4th regulation of the 2d December, 1836."

The Legislature finally passed an act for the protection of settlers in their possessions, or claims, in the absence of proper title, and which was only recently repealed. This, in a measure, superseded the necessity for the compact, and it gradually became dissolved.

There are many instances where the regulations of the compact were invoked, and its decrees enforced--where families were forcibly removed as trespassers or intruders, and their habitations destroyed.

On the 22d of August, 1836, a post office was established at Indian Creek, called Half-Day, and Seth Washburn appointed Postmaster, being the first post office established in the county. The name was taken from a Pottawattomie Chief, whose village was on the river near the mouth of Indian Creek, and to which Mr. Kennicott, whose place was near by, gave the name of Me-tah-wah, in honor of a later chief, greatly respected by Mr. Kennicott.

In the Fall of this year, a school for the instruction of children was opened at Half-Day, by Laura B. Sprague. This was the first school taught in what is now Lake County.

Among those who came in 1836, in addition to names already mentioned, were J. R. Nichols and sons, Jeremiah Porter and sons, who settled in what is now the town of Benton; Gleason T. Haines, in the vicinity of Mill Creek; the Caldwells, Arthur Patterson, Benjamin Marks, Isaac Hickox and sons, Godfrey and Hiram Dwelley, Lawrence Carroll, and John Mullery, on the east of the Aux Plaines; the Hubbards, at Indian Creek; Burleigh Hunt, at Little Fort; Elmsley Sunderlin and Abraham Marsh, near the old New York House; Churchell Edwards, Noer Potter and sons, and David Hendee, in what is now the town of Avon; George Ela and Abram Vanderwerker, at Deer Grove; Alexander Fortune, at Lake Zurich, then called Cedar Lake; Justus Bangs, at Bangs' Lake; James Bartlett and Levi Hutchinson, at Independence Grove; Mr. Arnold, on the west side of the Grove; Rufus Soules on the river near the south line of the county; D. B. and Thomas Q. Gage, and Thomas Warner, at and about the present site of Antioch, and John Cloes, who settled in what is now called Lake Bluff.

On the 4th of November, 1836, a post office was established about four miles above Independence Grove, called Abingdon, and Samuel Brookes, who resided at that point, appointed Postmaster. On the 16th of April; 1837, a post office was established at Independence Grove; named Libertyville, and Henry B. Steele was appointed Postmaster. The people desired that the post office should take the name they had given to the grove; but learning that there was already a post office in the State of that name, so that name could not be adopted for that office, and being desirous of preserving a name in some manner suggestive of their previous Fourth of July occasion, at the suggestion of A. B. Wynkoop, who had recently settled there, and was taking an active part in public affairs, the name of Libertyville was adopted. In the Fall of 1836, a school-house was built at Libertyville. It was a log building, the logs being hewn on both sides--inside and out-- commonly called a block-house. It was the first school-house erected in the county. It was built by subscription or contributions by the inhabitants, a large proportion of whom, it is noted to their credit, were young bachelors.

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